Graeme McElheran

Northern Affairs needs to be disbanded, says Gwitchin chief

EDMONTON It’s time for Indian and Northern Affairs Canada, which governs the country’s three northern territories and its aboriginal…

Return from the land of paradox

LONDON, England The day I drove out of Kumasi for the last time a friend asked what adjective I would apply to Africa after living there for eight…

our voodoo wedding

LOME, Togo First the voodoo priest wanted to know our names. Seated inside a darkened shack at the edge of La Marche des Fetishes, Ganyehessou…

public transport a way of african life

I wonder if they’ll ever get this rig moving. I’ve been sitting in this butt-numbing position  —  doubled-over, knees…

The West Edmonton Mall of West Africa

KUMASI, Ghana Kumasi is Ghana’s second-largest city and the country’s inland hub; all major roads leading north towards the Sahara…

lessons in tolerance

KUMASI, Ghana Inside the inner courtyard at Manhyia Palace, heart of the Ashanti Kingdom, a westerner would need an anthropologist’s knowledge…

the value of volunteer appearances

KUMASI, Ghana There are four types of oburonis, or foreigners, to be found in West Africa. The most established are the expatriates, folks from…

un weaning liberia out of ghana

It’s hard to write about a thing when you know next to nothing about it. Consider life in a refugee camp.

It takes time to make time

TAMALE, Northern Ghana It was well past dark when I switched tro-tros in Tamale, pressing south through the African night.

christianity keeps colonial legacy alive

KUMASI, Ghana I met Larry several months ago on the bus to Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso.

my kingdom for a baguette

KUMASI, Ghana Walking down to the guesthouse at the end of the day the aroma of roasting meat wafted into my nostrils.

Currency change lightens Ghanaian pockets

HOHOE, Ghana Florence Yaarda looked confused as I paid for the night’s lodging. The proprietor of the Taste Lodge in eastern Ghana wrinkled…

Small faith in Africa’s big men

The soldier glared at me disapprovingly. “I have been told to detain you,” he said, explaining that my suspicious behaviour had been…

African oil: blessing or curse?

eople in Ghana don’t really know what to expect from oil companies that are jockeying for position on the West African nation’s Atlantic…

in ghana journalists just dont get it

KUMASI, Ghana Yukon Premier Dennis Fentie used to wonder why Whitehorse journalists didn’t do more to “promote the territory.

african struggles with ecotourism

MOUNT CAMEROON, Cameroon The relentless gain in altitude brought respite from the equatorial heat as we trudged upwards through the rainforest of…

a silent witness to african conflict

ACCRA, Ghana The afternoon was hot and I wanted ice cream. They sell it at Frankie’s, a popular joint in the Ghanaian capital, Accra, where…

cameroon official scams silver lining from tragedy

DOUALA, Cameroon The man who called himself Nkankam was drinking beer outside a bakery in Douala on a Sunday morning.

ghana gambles on high flying hopes

NKAWKAW, Ghana Carlos Ampeh couldn’t afford to jump off a cliff, but he wasn’t about to let white folks and rich Ghanaians be the only…

nigerians abroad cant go home yet

You could hardly blame Christopher Ani for not voting in Nigeria’s April elections. A native Nigerian from the southeastern Enugu state, Ani,…